All About Oli Slicking Technique!
Supplies:
These are the most important tools needed in order to make this Secret Oil Slick Color a Success!!!
A Professional Licensed Hair Cosmetologist
Color Supply Line: Joico Intensity
Colors: Colbolt Blue, Amethyst, Peacock Green and yellow mixed 1/2 & 1/2
(one tube of each color is plenty)
Lightener: Joico Vero KPACK Lightening Powder
Developer/Peroxide: Joico Creme Lightener
(refer to lightening stage for proper Volume needed 20volume needed for most)
One box of ColorTrak, precut foils,
One Hair Tie,
1 foiling or rat tail comb,
3 hair clips,
Chemical color cape,
A color brush for Each tone,
Four plastic (non metal) color bowls,
Quantum Clarify Shampoo,
JoicoSulfate Free Shampoo and Conditioner
MoistureMist
Babyliss Pro Flat iron and hair dryer.
Cosmo Prof is a great place to start when searching for the necessary tools that are needed for the Secret Oil Slicking process
*Color Choice:
Joico Intensities
Joico has amazing shades of bold and brilliant color. It is combined with concentrated pigments that are designed to help create endless shades with minimal fading. With the proper at home care (discussed later in the article) this shade has been lasting up to 4 months in most clients.
Color Intensity�s intermixable formula can be applied straight from the tube, or mix and mingled to your heart�s content for endless creative possibilities. Bonus benefit: no developer required!
Warnings
Avoid contact with eyes. Rinse eyes immediately if product comes into contact with them. Wear suitable gloves. Keep out of reach of children. For professional use only.
Lightener Choice:
Joico Vero Light Off-Scalp Lightening Powder contains moisture-rich crystals to protect the hair's cuticle and inner structure.
Contains K-Pak protection and moisture-rich crystals to leave hair in optimum condition
Warnings
Avoid contact with eyes. Rinse eyes immediately if product comes into contact with them. Wear suitable gloves. Keep out of reach of children. For professional use only.
Developer/Peroxide Choice:
Veroxide
A pH-controlled gentle creme developer. Activates the exclusive K-PAK technology in VERO K-PAK for lightening formulas
Warnings
Contains hydrogen peroxide. Avoid contact with eyes. Rinse eyes immediately if product comes into contact with them. Wear suitable gloves. Keep out of reach of children.
For professional use only.
Foil Choice:
Colortrak Pop-Up Foil 5" x 11" 500 Sheets
Silver Foil
500 sheets per box
Pre-cut, ready-to-use sheets
Pop-up dispenser box
Shampoo Choices:
Quantum Clarifying Shampoo:
Ensures maximum performance when used prior to chemical services
Dual chelating system washes away minerals, any remaining chemicals, chlorine and hard water deposits
Oil Slicking:
If the client has Darker Hair, deeper shades are ideal for this adventure. Blending deep purples into greens and the green into a blue are great for naturally dark hair. Do to this being a secret you really dont want the shades to be too bright or show through, so placement should be kept underneath thick sections of your natural hair. Always making sure to keep the secret to yourself. Longer Length Hair Styles that can cover the secret color underneath is best for the Secret Style.
(Depending on how dark the color is, pre lightening steps may be needed. In order to acheive Brightness but Not necessary)
As for lighter hair you should really stick to the more lighter, opal and pastel shades in the Oil Slick Shades. Using Peachy oranges, light pinks, dull yellows and lime greens in the Joico Line would be ideal tones for blondes. Just like the dark color placement, thick sections are needed to hide the tones. Pre lightening is not necessary for any color that may be used on dirty blonde to lightest shades of blonde.
Sectioning:
The sectioning is going to make the uniqueness for the Secret Oil Slicking Process possible. Sectioning is an important part of the process as well due to the secret of its Non Visual/ Visual effect.
One way is to:
Make a U-Section, starting and ending at the eyebrow line. Brush hair up into a secure hair tie then wrap into a bun, keeping this hair completely out of your way. Then measure at least one inch down and make at least three 1x4 inch sections placing each into a hair clip for easier control of all hair. Leave a one inch section at hair line in order to keep the color a A Secret. This Is Great for the Styles that Must be pulled up.
Another way is:
Start by making a half circle section, from ear to ear. Placing top section of the hair into a bun. Leaving the entire underneath available For Secret Oil Slicking Shades.
You can be creative with this part, make it your own...
Lightening Process:
(LIGHTENER IS NOT ALWAYS NEEDED)
*This step is only for the brightest shades wanted and expected.
Dust Free Powder such as Joico Lightener, dust free lightener would be a great choice for lightener.
Peroxide:
This part can get a little tricky. In order to determine Volume needed there are a few things to consider:
Are there layers of past colors that still exist. Even If the clients hair hasnt been colored in 6-12 months, there still may be color in layers of the cuticle.
If so, your hair will need a higher level of Peroxides, 30-40 volume Cream developer will be required on Natural Levels 1-3 & levels 4-7 need 10-20 Volume peroxide.
Next: Mixing the Product
First mix your bleach and peroxide. Add one level scoop (1/4 cup) of powder into bowl, pour in Cream Developer a little at a time until you reach a nice creamy consistency. Make sure the consistency is more on the thicker side. if Product Consistency is to thin add more powder.
Next: Application
Place Chemical processing cape on client in order to keep clothing protected.
Next, you will start the sectioning for bleach and foil placement.
in your first section of clipped hair, take a thin horizontal slice, thin enough so that you can see thru the hair slicing. (place extra hair back into clip) Take a sheet of foil, fold the top of foil (approximately a half inch) over the end of the rat tail/Foiling comb, Place your foil under the section. (try pressing foil gently against the head for control) and begin Bleach application. Place your brush into bleach, scoop out a small amount at a time until you get a handle on controlling the brush and bleach. Applying product to one foil at a time per section. *MAKING SURE TO KEEP AWAY FROM SCALP. Run the product all the way to the ends, then place second sheet of foil on top of that section. Take another thin slice, and lay it on top of last sheet, apply bleach and then cover with third sheet of foil.Continue this step until you reach the top of section.
DISCLAIMER:
Bleach MUST be kept approx 1/4 inch from scalp.
(higher volume peroxide can create chemical burning, blisters and sometimes hair loss)
When all application is finished apply heat to get maximum results.
Processing time:
Darker hair (especially previously colored) will need extra time. Timing It out to approximately 45 minutes for levels 1-4. Timing levels 5-7 approximately 30 minutes. If you are trying to achieve extreme lighting this step may need to be repeated.
** Do Not Leave 30-40 vol bleach on you hair for any longer than 45 min. **
Heat Application/Processing time
There are two separate ways to add heat to foils, most common in salon choice is underneath a hooded dryer and the heating temperature for this step should be medium heat. Also, a hand held Hair dryer always works in this step. If you have the narrow nozzle attachment that usually comes with the dryer, now would be a great time to attach it, if you don't its fine.
By adding the attachment helps with applying direct heat.
Place your hair dryer approx 10inches away from foils, making sure heat from dryer is aiming directly at foils, turn on low to medium heat.
Both methods work for accelerating and processing the lightener.
The level of lightness will be determined by the expected color of achievement. the lighter you take the hair, the brighter the tone.
Rinsing:
After you have reached the desired level, (orange to pale blonde) gently removed each foil. if you have placed the foil as straight a possible they should slide off nicely. rinse with warm water, (still leaving hair in bun at top of head) i personally feel that using Quantum clarifying shampoo is best, it helps remove any left over color/product. Wash Hair Twice. Towel Dry.
Drying Prep
Next condition with a Hydrating Mist, this leave in conditioner will help achieve more slip and control, while evening out the porosity. Start detangling from the bottom of the hair strand and working your way up.
How to Dry The Hair
As you dry the hair make sure the heat is at medium temperature. aiming dryer in a downward angle.
Secret Oil Slicking Color Application
Let The fun begin!!!!
By now you should know what shades you want for this step.
Once again taking the same thin see through sections in step three.
Start by taking diagonal sections, this will give you a more custom look.
(fold foil over comb and both under thin section of hair)
Use a darker shade at top working it into a lighter/brighter shade and back to a darker tone. Since this application is for oil slicking, you can totally use your imagination! When applying the shades make sure to over lap the color approx a half inch into next shade.
EXAMPLE:
You will divide the length of hair into thirds. Start the application by applying Amethyst to the top section working it down one third of the way,
then apply Colbolt Blue to the middle section, and then Peacock Green/Yellow mixture to the ends. over lap the shades where they meet at least one inch into the next.
*Each thin section you take will need to be Foiled Separately.
(One piece of foil underneath each thin section of hair and one piece of foil a top of the just applied color. Repeat this step for every slice via every section)
Process:
Place the client under a hooded dryer for approximately 20 to 30 minutes. Then remove the client from the dryer and then let them cool down for another 10 minutes. The heat from the dryer will allow the cuticle layer to open and the color to seep under this layer
And then allowing The cuticle to reseal during to cooling process.
Rinsing:
Still leaving hair in bun atop of head. Pull foils out one by one.
Work color into the hair using gloves. Rinse hair with COLD WATER.
(washing with hot water will open up the cuticle layer, and wash away all your hard work.
(COLD WATER IS A MUST)
This as well helps with the longevity of color. Wash with Joico Sulfate Free shampoo, rinse towel dry and Spray again with Hydrating mist.
Blow dry and Style:
Dryer should always be on a medium heat. Aiming In a downward direction. Style with your favorite styling tools. always using medium heat on any style.
AFTER SALON CARE:
This is also a very important part of the color service and Any Chemical Service.
Make sure to purchase a Sulfate Free Shampoo Conditioner and Styling Products.
(DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF CLARIFY PRODUCTS,this will STRIP all chemicals applied)
Wash and Condition hair in cold water.
(ALWAYS WASH WITH COLD WATER FOR LONGEVITY)
(Hot water will open the cuticle and allow chemicals to escape)
Towel dry. Spray Leave in conditioner. Brush hair starting at bottom and working your way up. Apply Favorite styling Products of choice. Blow dry on medium heat. Iron style by choice.
DISCLAIMER
Always be sure to check the porosity and strengths of the hair BEFORE the Pre-lightening Stage.